Among the criteria that Michelin judges purportedly look for in a fine restaurant is the fact that you can tell, by the dishes that are served, who’s back there in the kitchen. That’s undoubtedly true at any of Michael Beltran’s restaurants, where he bakes his Miami upbringing and Cuban heritage into his menus. His dishes at Ariete are often inventions, combining ingredients and techniques in ways nobody has tried before, and yet they’re approachable and delicious—the kinds of things you want to go back for many more times.